This haunted waterfront town is filled with curious ghostly tales and centuries of engaging history so obviously it's one of my most favorite to visit in October especially. Even as far back as Captain John Smiths recounts of his explorations, he mentions Portsmouth, VA in 1608 when he writes of a Native American village in the now "hospital point" area of the city.
FYI! Visiting it after sunset is even more exciting, so go for it and let your curiosity and imagination take over.
The city's havoc-filled history includes the famous and the infamous such as traitor Benedict Arnold and famous Brit, General Cornwallis. The strategic port city was even headquarters for the British forces in 1781.
Besides the many elaborate church steeples adorning the skyline, I think my most favorite is a building completed in 1845, with an unusual and intriguing connection to its adjacent structure so read on. It's the old Norfolk Courthouse and is in the "prison square area" of Olde Town Portsmouth at 400 High Street.
Public executions took place on the very lawn of this classic old Greek Revival building. In early Virginia, hanging was the standard unless you had earned what was deemed a more humane execution by a firing squad and were shot to death instead. Portsmouth was the county seat for Norfolk - the other waterside city directly across the river from it, so it served both for their jails and as such, also their executions.
It's probable that this tree was used for some of those hangings.
Famous, infamous and memorable ships have also sailed into and out of this port. To add to centuries of tumultuous and important history, then the Yellow Fever epidemic in 1855 drastically reduced the citys numbers, due in large part to infected sailors bringing the disease onshore here.
Prepare to be humbled and amazed when you stop by St. Pauls Church nearby on High Street and read the tribute to Father Francis Devlin. Only in his early 20s the young priest sailed from Ireland to take charge of the church shortly before the epidemic. He worked around the clock in the makeshift hospital- church treating those stricken and ultimately lost his own life to the disease.
Thousands more died in the struggling city, trying to find its purpose in its early years and it seemed that Portsmouth's economy would never recover.
One couple, Hannelore and Anton Osfolk though, saw its possibilities and created the Bier Garden almost 30 years ago where they could serve the Bavarian cuisine the missus had perfected and people loved in their German homeland.
To date, I haven't spent a better Oktoberfest anywhere else.
To add to its curiosity-not to mention delicious and authentic German cuisine, the outdoor garden portion of the restaurant butts up to the old jail and execution grounds.
Look closely at the adjoining wall and you'll see remnants of the changes to the courthouse building on the patched brick. This evidence leads to more intrigue and belief that the outside garden and part of The Bier Garden restaurant was in fact part of the original courthouse and jail at one time.
The Bier Gardens long time and original owner, Oma (German for gramma) Osfolk believes it was, and that a ghost with a history linked to the jail and execution grounds now haunts her restaurant.
Her ghost may have taken up residence in the creepy basement of the courthouse until he found his way to the Bier Garden which opened in 1997. "He stays in the kitchen as far as I've observed, and he's a good ghost" she quips, but quickly adds with a smile, "at least to me."
The famous courthouse has been redone inside and repurposed now for the Portsmouth Art and Cultural Center. Instead of executions, now the lawn is filled with happy children, visitors, and is even home to yoga classes taught through the ACC.
Other tangible remnants of the past have endured like this old hitching post. They only add to the exciting and compelling part of this city which will always be its lore, entrenching history, and its ghosts.
There's ample parking so you can take your time walking and enjoy the historic memorials that dot the modern streets. It's the perfect place to spend a cool October day in southeast Virginia and the perfect opportunity for a relaxing walk to delve into its historic gems.
The ferry that crosses the Elizabeth River between Portsmouth and Norfolk is a must do. Its precursor dates all the way back to 1636. Then it was merely small skiffs rowed by men. The new ferries are much larger and more modern but carry on the tradition with the charm that's also steeped into this exciting city.
What better place for dad to take Laina for her first ferry ride!
While you walk the pretty streets and shorelines to the ferry launches with family and friends, one may even catch their very first glimpse of a friendly ladybug also enjoying a sunny Portsmouth day.
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